Catch a wave

Waves, explained.

A wave carries a disturbance. In a transverse wave, a medium particle moves perpendicular to the direction of propagation. One wavelength separates neighboring crests, and frequency counts cycles per second.

0 m12 mOrange particle stays at x = 4 mWave travels right

The relationship to remember

v = fλ · y = A sin(2π(x/λ − ft))

Key formulas

Wave speed
v = fλ
Frequency × wavelength
Period
T = 1/f
Time for one complete cycle
Wavelength
λ = v/f
Distance between neighbouring crests
Traveling sine wave
y = A sin(2π(x/λ − ft))
Moves in the +x direction

Worked example

Problem. Ocean swell arrives at a beach every 8.0 s, and the crests are 100 m apart. What are the frequency and the wave speed?

  1. The period is T = 8.0 s, so the frequency is f = 1/T = 1/8.0 = 0.125 Hz.
  2. Wave speed: v = fλ = 0.125 × 100 = 12.5 m/s.

Answer. The swell has a frequency of 0.125 Hz and travels at 12.5 m/s.

A quick check

A frequency of 0.5 Hz and wavelength of 4 m give wave speed 2 m/s and period 2 s.

Inside the default experiment

  1. Wave speed = frequency × wavelength = 0.5 × 4 = 2 m/s.
  2. Period = 1/f = 2 s.
  3. Particle displacement is y = 1 sin(2π(x/4 − 0.5t)).

When this model applies

An ideal transverse sinusoidal wave. Frequency and wavelength are independently set; wave speed changes with their product.

Make a prediction. Then test it.

Track the orange particle. Does it travel along with the wave?

Try it: Traveling wave simulator ↗
A little question. A clearer picture.

Frequently asked questions

Wondering about the why? Start here.

Does increasing amplitude make the wave faster?

Not in this ideal model. Speed is set by fλ; amplitude changes the size of the displacement.

Can frequency and wavelength vary independently in a real medium?

In a nondispersive medium with fixed wave speed, their product stays constant. This explorer allows both inputs so you can compare the resulting speeds.